How to grow geranium seeds from their own?
Preparation and selection
To grow pelargonium quickly and without any problems, it is first necessary to select the seeds that will be involved in the process. They should be rather large, with a dense leathery shell, having an oblong shape with small depressions on the sides. The color of the seeds should be brown, with a moderate shade and a slight matte sheen.
If you find seeds covered with multi-colored spots that are different from the normal tonality, as well as deformed, small, flattened, they must be immediately put aside because their cultivation will not be able to give the desired result.
Some types of pelargonium, especially ileum, can sprout about 2-3 months after planting, causing concern to a novice grower, or even disappointment, followed by discontinuation of care.
To minimize the time to germinate,it is necessary to perform the procedure of scarification, that is, the removal of part of the leathery shell and ensure free access of nutrients to the inside. At home, this is best done with fine or medium sandpaper, which allows you to remove the top layer, but not create tears, destructive for pelargonium.
When finished with seeds, proceed to the formation of the substrate. It can be purchased at the store, but then there is a very high probability of a collision with oversaturation of the soil with minerals. Pelargonium tolerates such conditions rather poorly - seeds sprout 2-3 times slower, and the resulting bushes become low, with thick stems and very rare flowering.
The composition of self-made substrate should include:
- two pieces of turf land;
- one part of river sand;
- one piece of high quality peat.
So that cultivation does not involve the treatment of various diseases,the effect of which is particularly susceptible to ampella pelargonium, the soil should be calcined in the oven for 2-3 minutes. Do not be afraid to destroy the nutrients and organic compounds found in the soil - the flower feels excellent in poor soil and does not require special conditions of maintenance, as well as the use of fertilizing.
An alternative to this treatment method may be the use of a quality fungicide. After its use, it is worth waiting for about 3-6 hours for the earth to be ready to receive the plant. In addition to all the above, the cultivation of pelargonium will require you to use shallow trays and compact pots for permanent use.
At home, it is better to use trays with a depth of 3 centimeters, which can be purchased at a specialty store or made from scrap materials. Fill them with the substrate, slightly sprinkle the surface of the soil with warm water and put in a warm place for the day, so that the earth can warm up to the desired temperature (20-22 degrees). After that, at a distance of about 2 centimeters from each other, make small fossa, plunging a finger into the substrate.Put the pelargonium seeds inwards and sprinkle them with a layer of soil of about 1 centimeter.
To grow healthy shrubs, you need to once again slightly moisten the soil and cover it with a film, in which it is worth making holes for access of air. At home, the seeds should be kept in a warm place, corresponding to the above temperature regime, under normal illumination, but you should not put the trays on the window sills. As soon as you see the first shoots of a delicate green tint, immediately remove the film so as not to create excessive moisture for them.
Now pallets with seeds need to be put on the window sill, so that pelargonium gets the maximum of sunlight. If you ignore this requirement, growing an adult plant will take 2-3 times longer. The soil must be constantly loosened so that the root system of the flower is strengthened, and the stems become strong enough and capable of holding thick, heavy leaves.
When you manage to grow pelargonium, which already has 2 true leaves, it is worth picking and transplanting each received bush into a separate narrow and high pot.In this state, the cultivation lasts until the formation of the fifth leaf - above it, the seedlings are pinched to get the most branched shrub, and not the thin, tall stem.
After you have dealt with the pelargonium seeds and obtained healthy large plants, you need to keep them in a similar state. To do this, maintain a constant temperature in the range of 20-24 degrees. A short-term decrease in the index to 17-18 degrees is allowed, however, with a long-term maintenance in such conditions, the flower may begin to rot and lose leaves.
Lighting should be very good. The plant feels best on the southern windowsills, as well as in places where direct sunlight falls.
The most difficult moment in the care of pelargonium - watering. It is worth remembering that this flower is in many ways similar to succulents, to which cacti, aloe and other similar organisms belong.
Pelargonium easily tolerates the absence of watering for 5-10 days due to the accumulation of fluid in thick, soft stems and fleshy leaves.A sign that you have overdone it and let the plant lose a lot of moisture will be the thinning of the stems, as well as the appearance of small brown or yellowish spots on the leaves.
In summer, pelargonium is better to be set aside from the window sill about a meter in order to prevent it from getting sunburns in extreme heat. In addition, you can use a diffuse filter that is glued to the window glass. In winter, pelargonium goes into a state of active hibernation, which is characterized by the absence of flowering and an increase in domestic water supplies.
The plant can be placed in a room with a temperature of 15-17 degrees and reduce watering to once a week. Under any circumstances, droplets on the leaves should not be allowed, as they cause rotting - if this happens, you should use a soft cloth to remove excess moisture.
Seed collection for the next planting
If you want to grow pelargonium, having received seeds from your bushes, you should collect them immediately after ripening. The main sign of achievement of a similar life stage by a plant is the purchase of seed pods of brown color with a slight yellowness.Do not let the seeds fall into the ground - they can begin to germinate, which will not allow you to store them.
Interestingly, hybrid pelargonium in the second or third generation gives the splitting of varieties used for crossing - therefore, to preserve the resulting shade, it is better to use the method of transplanting cuttings during reproduction.