Host - in every garden!
Many gardeners dilute the variegated palette of flowering plants with a variety of deciduous and decorative species that harmoniously complement the garden composition. Among the huge number of ornamental shrubs, perennial plants such as hosts are most often preferred: planting and caring for them are not particularly difficult, and the variety of varieties and the ability to maintain a decorative look right up to frosts can not but interest fans of garden flora. Particularly advantageous, they look if perennial flowers are planted nearby, blooming all summer.
Hosta: characteristic of the plant
Hosta is a decorative perennial rhizomatous plant with large leaves. Leaf color, depending on the host variety, has a different look: from bluish-gray to green. In total, there are about forty varieties of this plant, not counting hybrids. The homeland of the hosts is East Asia, in particular, China, Korea and Japan, from where it came to Europe already in the 19th century. This shrub is also found in the Far East of Russia.
The flowers of the host are collected in one inflorescence, and individually resemble funnels or bells of lilac, purple and white. Flowering period hosts - summer and autumn. Fruits are boxes, consisting of three faces, inside of which in large quantities are the seeds. When planting, seeds can grow for a period of about one year.
The hosts have one feature that can scare away impatient gardeners: it takes about five years to grow and acquire the final decorative look, making your garden picturesque, it takes a lot of time. But and then it will look magnificent and beautiful, the leaves will become larger and more textured.
Planting the hosts in the garden
Gardeners do not like how unpretentious the plant - the host. But this does not mean that the landing of the hosts can be made anywhere and care for it is absolutely not required. In order for the plant to take its best decorative appearance, you should follow certain rules that may differ from each other depending on the type of hosts. Propagated by the host and seeds, but it is best to grow it with seedlings.
How to choose material for planting
As a rule, the host is sold in the shops of plants in the following form: with an open rhizome, with a rhizome in a package with peat or sawdust, or already planted in a pot. Buying seedlings in a pot is beneficial because you will immediately understand what color the bush will have, but it is better to purchase seedlings with an open root system and no leaves, because it will take root on your site.
A good sign by which you can choose seedlings - a developed leaf bud.
How to plant a host?
Most of the varieties of this plant is suitable for planting in a place where they could get about two morning sunny hours. As a rule, these are varieties with a large number of white or yellow stripes on the leaves - they prefer partial shade and are favorable to the sun.
But the hosts with blue leaves or dark green leaves feel good in the shade, for example, among tall trees, where they may not even see the direct sun - this is how they will get a rich color.
A condition that works for all varieties: in a hot climate, the landing of the hosts should be carried out where the plant gets enough shade.The hosts on poor soils feel good: planting on such a plot of land contributes to an increase in the brightness and contrast of the leaves of the shrubbery.
However, if you still have the opportunity to land the host on fertile loam or black soil, then as a result you will get an even more lush, beautiful bush that will grow faster. It is worth avoiding wetlands, with stagnant moisture, and peaty and sandy soils should be diluted with compost.
Fertilizing the soil is done in spring and summertime: mullein, compost, and mineral fertilizers are best used, but after flowering the host fertilizing should be stopped. Do not get carried away with organic fertilizers to prevent an excess of nitrogen. Overfeeding for the host is harmful. Be careful with mulching the soil around the plant, as it can help debride the roots.
The time when landing will be the most favorable is spring, when frost is not expected anymore, around the end of April or the beginning of May.
Prepare the wells for the landing of a medium host, placing them at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other. Increase this distance to 1 m for large varieties.Dwarf hosts enough for 20 cm.
The size of the hole depends on the volume of the rhizome of your host. Planting should be at a depth of 2-3 cm. When planting, set up seedlings in the hole, straighten the roots, then fill them with earth so that there is no free space under the roots. The earth must be tamped and poured. Watering the land must be carried out in advance, if you planted seedlings from the pot.
Hosts - plants for the lazy, because care for them is almost not needed if the landing was performed in the right place.
The host root system is powerful enough: it penetrates deep into the ground, which helps it pull out nutrients and moisture from there. Nevertheless, the care of the hosts includes watering: it is impossible to completely forget about it, especially when it comes to hot days or lack of precipitation. The soil around them should still be slightly moist, but not damp.
Watering the host needs only under the roots - water on the leaves will lead to the appearance of white spots from moisture, and the host with a bluish-blue color will lose a waxy coating, thanks to which it has such an interesting color.
In addition, ordinary weeding, of course, also enters the care, of course.The overgrown host weed neighborhood no longer interferes too much.
Although watering the weeds and the host, planted in the right place, is not a hindrance, another important part of the care of the host is the fight against diseases and pests.
Pests such as slugs and snails, which leave sticky paths of mucus on the plant and gnaw on thin leaves, often interfere with it. Agrotechnics advise to deal with uninvited guests with the help of bait, beer traps and wet newspapers, but none of these methods guarantees a 100% result. However, hosts with thick leaves from slugs will not be able to suffer, since they gnaw only the most tender places.
In the fight against caterpillars and beetles, only insecticides that should be sprayed with the host will help. And with harmful rodents who love to gnaw the roots of the plant, fighting with poisonous baits.
Hosta can also be a viral disease, in which the leaves become covered with yellow patches like a mosaic. It becomes impossible to fight the virus after its appearance, so the only thing that gardeners can do is to provide proper care and prevention.When transplanting and dividing do not forget to handle the tools with disinfectants; buying new bushes, do not plant them next to the old, suspicious bushes immediately dig and destroy.
In case of a fungal disease of the host, phyllostikose, it is necessary to destroy the affected leaves and switch to moderate watering. Shrubs can be sprayed with solutions of colloidal sulfur and copper sulfate, which can be made in the proportion of one hundred grams per bucket of water. This disease looks like the appearance of large brown spots on the leaves, which are beginning to merge into one, and the fabric of the hosts shrinks.
If rust has appeared on the leaves, this is a sign of a lack of moisture, which can be eliminated with the help of increased watering in a hot period without precipitation.
It affects the host also such a disease as root neck rot. The bush ceases to grow, and the leaves fall. It is necessary to fight the disease by digging up the host, removing the damaged parts of the root and treating them with a fungicide. The bush is planted in another place, and the old soil in the previous flower bed needs to be replaced.
A transplant may not take about twenty years - on average, most varieties of hosts are able to grow well in the same place for this amount of time.However, the desire to transplant to the host may occur in a gardener, whose flower bed suffers from the pomp of this plant, which does not allow other flowers to grow well. And although experienced gardeners say that a young host is the easiest to transplant - from 4 to 6 years, sometimes it may be necessary to transplant more mature plants.
When transferring to a host, make sure that you choose a favorable place so that the plant can endure this painful process as well as possible. This is best done in spring or summer. In the fall, agrotechnists do not advise in transplanting, but if you decide to do this, then try to be in time by mid-September, or be guided by the climate in your area: the main thing is that you have at least a month left before a cold snap.
Scrub the hosts to dig and shake off the clods of earth. Trim the tips of the roots to rejuvenate the plant. Hosts are propagated by division, so if you want to replicate your shrub during transplantation, then with a knife, cross-section the rhizome itself and break it with your hands. Do not forget to treat the root with a special solution, for example, a fungicide, or use ash.Further landing of the hosts in the ground, we have already described above.
Cognitive video, which covers the care of the host in detail, see below: